:: Clear Fork Training Tips and Articles ::
Teaching a horse to stand tied without pawing.
Horses that will paw the trailer or fence and are restless while standing
tied are showing signs of boredom. They can be helped by sitting a
distance away from them with a pile of small pebbles. Just kind of
daydream, but pay attention to them.
When they begin to paw or move around, toss a pebble into the air, letting it
fall next to them. Don't hit the horse with the rock. As he tries to figure out
what the noise was, his mind will become occupied.
Keep repeating until the horse is waiting for the next one instead of being
so bored! I've tried this myself. It is usually 15-20 minutes before the
horse drops his head and gets calm.
tied are showing signs of boredom. They can be helped by sitting a
distance away from them with a pile of small pebbles. Just kind of
daydream, but pay attention to them.
When they begin to paw or move around, toss a pebble into the air, letting it
fall next to them. Don't hit the horse with the rock. As he tries to figure out
what the noise was, his mind will become occupied.
Keep repeating until the horse is waiting for the next one instead of being
so bored! I've tried this myself. It is usually 15-20 minutes before the
horse drops his head and gets calm.
| Come back regularly to this page for new tips and articles. Anytime you need advice or have a question, all you need to do is eMail Larry for help. |
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(918) 422-8877
(918) 723-4551
Lunging
Never lunge a horse thinking you are going to tire it out before you ride. Even
the most worn out horse can put you on the ground if a mountain lion comes
after it. If you will notice, every time you lunge your horse, it takes longer and
longer than before to work the kinks out. It is because every time you lunge, he
is building muscle and stamina.
Lunging is supposed to be a time for learning. If your horse is pulling on you,
not changing direction, or softening his neck while lunging, you’re teaching
the horse “bad habits.” By pulling you around and ignoring your cues, you are
teaching the horse that if he leads you around the round pen, he’s in control.
Start your lunging up close. Place your hand approximately six to eight inches
from where the lunge line snaps to the halter. This will give you more control
than being at “the end of your rope.” Teach the horse to move away from you
with a slight bend in his neck at this distance first. When he learns from this
distance, you can begin letting him out a little further. Slowly, progress to
lunging him out 20-30 feet. This may take awhile, but by doing this in baby
steps, you will save yourself a lot of heartache in the beginning, and see your
work really pay off in the end.
the most worn out horse can put you on the ground if a mountain lion comes
after it. If you will notice, every time you lunge your horse, it takes longer and
longer than before to work the kinks out. It is because every time you lunge, he
is building muscle and stamina.
Lunging is supposed to be a time for learning. If your horse is pulling on you,
not changing direction, or softening his neck while lunging, you’re teaching
the horse “bad habits.” By pulling you around and ignoring your cues, you are
teaching the horse that if he leads you around the round pen, he’s in control.
Start your lunging up close. Place your hand approximately six to eight inches
from where the lunge line snaps to the halter. This will give you more control
than being at “the end of your rope.” Teach the horse to move away from you
with a slight bend in his neck at this distance first. When he learns from this
distance, you can begin letting him out a little further. Slowly, progress to
lunging him out 20-30 feet. This may take awhile, but by doing this in baby
steps, you will save yourself a lot of heartache in the beginning, and see your
work really pay off in the end.
Get Relaxed!
Ever notice how a child can make a horse respond, or be caught easier
than a grown up? Most of this has to do with the child’s approach. A child
is usually relaxed, and doesn't worry about the horse running off, or acting
up. Most of us adults are so worried and in a hurry that the horse senses
this, and it causes a reaction. The more relaxed we are, the more relaxed
our equine friends should be.
Now I know there’s always that “risk factor” of getting hurt that needs to
be in everyone’s mind. Always keep that in mind, but try to hide it to the best
of your abilities. For example: If you go out with a friend to lunch, and
you’re not having a very good day, you make your friend feel uneasy. You
may not have said that you are having a bad day, but the vibes, and
reactions you present are telling on you. On the other hand if you are
having a bad day, and go in with a smile on your face, and acting like the
world just did you a big favor, this will show as well.
All of this will play a big part as to how your horse responds to you as
well. The more relaxed we are around our horse, the more he will be
attentive to us. Like the old saying goes: “ If you walk around with a chip on
your shoulder, be prepared for it to get knocked off.”
than a grown up? Most of this has to do with the child’s approach. A child
is usually relaxed, and doesn't worry about the horse running off, or acting
up. Most of us adults are so worried and in a hurry that the horse senses
this, and it causes a reaction. The more relaxed we are, the more relaxed
our equine friends should be.
Now I know there’s always that “risk factor” of getting hurt that needs to
be in everyone’s mind. Always keep that in mind, but try to hide it to the best
of your abilities. For example: If you go out with a friend to lunch, and
you’re not having a very good day, you make your friend feel uneasy. You
may not have said that you are having a bad day, but the vibes, and
reactions you present are telling on you. On the other hand if you are
having a bad day, and go in with a smile on your face, and acting like the
world just did you a big favor, this will show as well.
All of this will play a big part as to how your horse responds to you as
well. The more relaxed we are around our horse, the more he will be
attentive to us. Like the old saying goes: “ If you walk around with a chip on
your shoulder, be prepared for it to get knocked off.”
How To Stop A Horse
Do you know the answer to this question? Do you stop horses with the bit?
The answer, my friend, is no. The answer really is you have train a horse to
stop. That's the horse training end of it.
You see, I get a lot of questions asking how to stop a horse that just keeps
going and going. - A.K.A. the Eveready Horse. People always want to learn
horse training tips to whoa horses. One rider said, "It didn't matter how
hard I pulled on the reins, he just kept going." "Makes sense", I wrote back.
You see, a horse stops because he was trained to it. It's the training that
stops him...not the bit. The bit is merely a signaling device.
To get a runaway horse to stop you can employ the One-Rein Stop like Paul
Esh taught in our SuperStars of Horse Training Videos. One reason it
works so well is because a horse can't push against the bit when his head
is pulled to the side. But as Sam Burrell, January's SuperStars of Horse
Training, says...only use the One-Rein Stop when necessary. He's right.
You teach your horse some "not-so-good" habits if you overuse the
One-Rein Stop. One habit is he'll start to move his hip out because pulling
his head to one side causes the opposite sided hip to move out. So the
trick is to train the horse to stop.
A good technique is to use a fence. Start in the walk. Always, always,
always teach something first from the walk. Anyway, walk up to the fence
and before you get to it, adjust your body in the stop position. That is where
you relax, take a breath, feet a little forward, and draw your belly button back
to your spine. You see, the horse can feel that. It's a Pre-Signal to what
you're going to want. A pre-signal is always a good thing to do for the
horse. It tells him something's coming.
Okay. You gave him the pre signal and now you say "Whoa". Whoa is the
signal. You may have to give a "post" signal too. It's also known as the
enforcer. And that is a slight bump on the reins. Think of it this way.
You're in your car moving just fine. Then you see the light turn yellow.
That's your precursor that something's about to happen. And you already
know what that something is. Likewise, the horse gets his yellow light
from how you adjust your body while in the saddle.
Your red light from the traffic light is akin to the horse hearing you say
"Whoa". That means stop, grow roots, don't keep moving. So why use the
fence to teach your horse to stop? Because it's in his way. It's an aid to
help him to learn not go forward anymore. After all, there's a fence in his
way. As you practice this, don't go to the fence 90 degrees. Go at more of
an angle, say, 45 degrees. Remember to switch sides on the horse to
practice this. One more thing - and I've said it again and again.
Don't make your horse stop over and over and over. He'll get tired of it
REAL fast. See...I'll bet you even got tired of reading it. Just do a couple
stops on both sides then let him go wherever. You can make a horse mad
real quick by overdoing it. And when he gets mad, he's not too hip on being
cooperative. So when you get a few successes, let him be a horse for a bit.
The answer, my friend, is no. The answer really is you have train a horse to
stop. That's the horse training end of it.
You see, I get a lot of questions asking how to stop a horse that just keeps
going and going. - A.K.A. the Eveready Horse. People always want to learn
horse training tips to whoa horses. One rider said, "It didn't matter how
hard I pulled on the reins, he just kept going." "Makes sense", I wrote back.
You see, a horse stops because he was trained to it. It's the training that
stops him...not the bit. The bit is merely a signaling device.
To get a runaway horse to stop you can employ the One-Rein Stop like Paul
Esh taught in our SuperStars of Horse Training Videos. One reason it
works so well is because a horse can't push against the bit when his head
is pulled to the side. But as Sam Burrell, January's SuperStars of Horse
Training, says...only use the One-Rein Stop when necessary. He's right.
You teach your horse some "not-so-good" habits if you overuse the
One-Rein Stop. One habit is he'll start to move his hip out because pulling
his head to one side causes the opposite sided hip to move out. So the
trick is to train the horse to stop.
A good technique is to use a fence. Start in the walk. Always, always,
always teach something first from the walk. Anyway, walk up to the fence
and before you get to it, adjust your body in the stop position. That is where
you relax, take a breath, feet a little forward, and draw your belly button back
to your spine. You see, the horse can feel that. It's a Pre-Signal to what
you're going to want. A pre-signal is always a good thing to do for the
horse. It tells him something's coming.
Okay. You gave him the pre signal and now you say "Whoa". Whoa is the
signal. You may have to give a "post" signal too. It's also known as the
enforcer. And that is a slight bump on the reins. Think of it this way.
You're in your car moving just fine. Then you see the light turn yellow.
That's your precursor that something's about to happen. And you already
know what that something is. Likewise, the horse gets his yellow light
from how you adjust your body while in the saddle.
Your red light from the traffic light is akin to the horse hearing you say
"Whoa". That means stop, grow roots, don't keep moving. So why use the
fence to teach your horse to stop? Because it's in his way. It's an aid to
help him to learn not go forward anymore. After all, there's a fence in his
way. As you practice this, don't go to the fence 90 degrees. Go at more of
an angle, say, 45 degrees. Remember to switch sides on the horse to
practice this. One more thing - and I've said it again and again.
Don't make your horse stop over and over and over. He'll get tired of it
REAL fast. See...I'll bet you even got tired of reading it. Just do a couple
stops on both sides then let him go wherever. You can make a horse mad
real quick by overdoing it. And when he gets mad, he's not too hip on being
cooperative. So when you get a few successes, let him be a horse for a bit.
Round Bale Feeders
Please use only round bale feeders designed for horses. Other types that
are for cattle can, and will rub your horses mane off. Some horses will
stand with their heads in these thing so long that it will actually rub a sore
on their neck. Just use a little common sense when it comes to your horse,
and it will save you in the long run. Remember there’s no show class for
hairless horses.
are for cattle can, and will rub your horses mane off. Some horses will
stand with their heads in these thing so long that it will actually rub a sore
on their neck. Just use a little common sense when it comes to your horse,
and it will save you in the long run. Remember there’s no show class for
hairless horses.
Trust (By Jefferey Rolo)
Remember that when you work with your horse you must take the role of the
leader or alpha mare. Your horse needs to thrive off your confidence and
trust you enough to know that you would not ask him to do anything that
could harm him. If you haven't given your horse any reason to trust you, why
should he take a leap of faith for you? Would you do the same for someone
who gave you absolutely no reason to respect or trust him?
leader or alpha mare. Your horse needs to thrive off your confidence and
trust you enough to know that you would not ask him to do anything that
could harm him. If you haven't given your horse any reason to trust you, why
should he take a leap of faith for you? Would you do the same for someone
who gave you absolutely no reason to respect or trust him?
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Managing Your Time With Your Horse
I read this story as part of my college courses. I found it to be very useful in
the training process, and hope you will too.
Plan: You need a game plan for your day. The more time you spend
planning, the less total time is required for it.
Concentrate: This is the most important principal. The amount of time
spent in the training process is not what counts: It’s the amount of
“uninterrupted” time.
Take Breaks: To train for long periods without taking a break is not an
effective use of time. Energy decreases, boredom sets in, and physical
stress and tension accumulate. Switching for a few minutes from a mental
task to something physical can provide relief. Such exercises as just
walking around, or just resting in the middle of the arena. This also allows
the lesson to “soak in”.
Avoid Clutter: Having all the tools you need to perform your task will save a
lot of time. The less time you have to hunt for something, the more time you
have for training.
Don’t Be a Perfectionist: There is a difference between striving for
excellence and striving for perfection. The first is attainable, gratifying, and
healthy. The second is often unattainable, frustrating, and neurotic.
Remember, practice makes perfect.
Don’t Be Afraid to Say No: Reward the right things, but make the wrong
difficult. We all have heard this over and over, but it’s true. If you don’t get
the right response at first, do not settle for the wrong. Like a teacher in
elementary, keep doing it till they get it right. Always rewarding the slightest
try.
Don’t Be a Workaholic: Take time for yourself, and your equine friend. It
can’t all be work, you must make time to also enjoy one another.
I hope this has helped some of you to be more productive in your horse
training. This is just a sample of the things it takes to be successful in the
training process. If you have any questions, or would like to speak with me
personally. You can call or e-mail me with your questions.
the training process, and hope you will too.
Plan: You need a game plan for your day. The more time you spend
planning, the less total time is required for it.
Concentrate: This is the most important principal. The amount of time
spent in the training process is not what counts: It’s the amount of
“uninterrupted” time.
Take Breaks: To train for long periods without taking a break is not an
effective use of time. Energy decreases, boredom sets in, and physical
stress and tension accumulate. Switching for a few minutes from a mental
task to something physical can provide relief. Such exercises as just
walking around, or just resting in the middle of the arena. This also allows
the lesson to “soak in”.
Avoid Clutter: Having all the tools you need to perform your task will save a
lot of time. The less time you have to hunt for something, the more time you
have for training.
Don’t Be a Perfectionist: There is a difference between striving for
excellence and striving for perfection. The first is attainable, gratifying, and
healthy. The second is often unattainable, frustrating, and neurotic.
Remember, practice makes perfect.
Don’t Be Afraid to Say No: Reward the right things, but make the wrong
difficult. We all have heard this over and over, but it’s true. If you don’t get
the right response at first, do not settle for the wrong. Like a teacher in
elementary, keep doing it till they get it right. Always rewarding the slightest
try.
Don’t Be a Workaholic: Take time for yourself, and your equine friend. It
can’t all be work, you must make time to also enjoy one another.
I hope this has helped some of you to be more productive in your horse
training. This is just a sample of the things it takes to be successful in the
training process. If you have any questions, or would like to speak with me
personally. You can call or e-mail me with your questions.
I have had many people asking, how to get their horse to stand still for
mounting. The problem usually occurs when they try to put their foot in the
stirrup. If you have this problem, here is a simple exercise you can do to
fix the problem. If your horse wants to move, make him really move. Drive
him around until he wants to face-up and stand still. Try it again, and if
you get the same response repeat the driving around until he stops, and
relaxes. Make him feel like it is his idea to stop and stand still, not yours.
If he wants to move his feet, make him move until he figures out that
standing still is a lot easier, and takes less energy than moving around.
This all goes back to making the right thing easy, and the wrong thing
difficult. Horses learn from the release of pressure. So the more we pull,
and try to hold them still, the more they will fight. It is when we release the
pressure that they understand what we want, and we can reward them for
doing right. Another thing I do is hold my stirrup in one hand, and move it
with the horse as he moves away. When he stops and relaxes, I take the
pressure off and release the stirrup. This may take a couple of tries
before he gets the idea, but always remember that repetition is how they
overcome their fears.
mounting. The problem usually occurs when they try to put their foot in the
stirrup. If you have this problem, here is a simple exercise you can do to
fix the problem. If your horse wants to move, make him really move. Drive
him around until he wants to face-up and stand still. Try it again, and if
you get the same response repeat the driving around until he stops, and
relaxes. Make him feel like it is his idea to stop and stand still, not yours.
If he wants to move his feet, make him move until he figures out that
standing still is a lot easier, and takes less energy than moving around.
This all goes back to making the right thing easy, and the wrong thing
difficult. Horses learn from the release of pressure. So the more we pull,
and try to hold them still, the more they will fight. It is when we release the
pressure that they understand what we want, and we can reward them for
doing right. Another thing I do is hold my stirrup in one hand, and move it
with the horse as he moves away. When he stops and relaxes, I take the
pressure off and release the stirrup. This may take a couple of tries
before he gets the idea, but always remember that repetition is how they
overcome their fears.
Standing Still While Mounting
